Simon flobsheim



(No Model.)

s. FLORSHEIM. I :El-asticGore, Gusset, .&c., for Wearing Apparel.

No. 238,101. Patented Feb. 22,1881.

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UNITED STATES PATENT, Orrice.

SIMON FLORSHEIM, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO THOMAS H. BALL, OF SAME PLACE.

ELASTIC GORE G U SS ET, 8 0., FOR WEARING-APPAREL.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 238,101, dated February 22, 1881,

Application filed July 16, 1880. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern 1 places where rubbercloth cannot be employed Be it known that I, SIMON FLORSHEIM, of l to advantage. Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of My invention consists, first, in securing the Illinois, have invented a certain new and usemetal springs to the covering material and exful Improvement in Elastic Gores, Gussets,

and Sections for W ea-ring-Apparel, of which l the following is a specification. 1 The substitution of spiral metal springs for india-rubber as an element in elastic gores, gus- 10 sets, and sections for wearing-apparel has not heretofore proved successful, for the reason the covering-tubes formed therein in the prothat in all instances the springs have been cess of manufacture, such materialand the stayeth at their ends by the same stitching tuhesbeingwoven of aparticularpattern to suit that secures the gore to the material of the arthe location where the elastic gore is intended I P ticle of wearing-apparel to which it is applied. to be used, the tubes not extending to the ends 6 This stitching cannot be done bymachine, of the material; and, fourth, in the peculiar since the wire of the springs would be cutby fastening for securing the springs to the covthe needle when struck squarely, or the neeering material, all as fully hereinafter exdle itself be broken; and when the elastic i plained, and pointed out by the claims. gore or section is sewed in position by hand, In the accompanying drawings, forming a ends of the springs to form inelastic margins; second, in puckering the center of such covering material, while the inelastic margins are left plain and unpuckered third, in weaving the covering material of such elastic gore with 6 and the springs are secured by the same stitchpart hereof, Figure l is a view of the covering IL in g, the seams are thick and uneven, and prematerial with four tubes woven therein Fig. asent a bungling appearance, which destroys 2, the covering material withthree groups of the salableness ot' the article, in addition to two tubes each woven therein Fig. 3, a view the fact that the hand-sewing has heretofore of a group of four metal springs secured toi made the use of metal springs impracticable gether by the peculiar fastening device; Fig.

on account of the increased cost. I, a view of the elastic gore complete, the up- It is the object therefore of my invention to l per thickness of the covering material being overcome the objections to the employment of removed at one end to show the springs; Fig. 0 spiral metal springs as a substitute for india- 5, a crosssection of the same on line 2 2 or rubber in elastic gores, gnssets, and sections Fig. 4, and Fig. 6 an end view of one of the for wearing-apparel, and this I accomplish by fasteners for securing the springs of a group extending the springs only part way across to the covering material. the covering material, and staying them at Like letters denote corresponding parts in 5 their ends by securing them to such covering all the figures. material itself, while the covering material is A is the covering material, and B the closely L, extended beyond the ends ofthe springs to coiled spiral springs of metal, which are inform inelasticmargins, by whichthe gore can closed in tubes cl in the coverin g material. The be secured in position by stitching these marcovering material is puckered over the springs, 40 gins, on a sewing-machine, to the material of which, however, do not extend to the edges of the article of wearing-apparel to which the gore is applied. This elastic gore is adapted gins 6 being left outside of the ends of the such material, inelastic and unpuckered marmore especially for corsets, :for the sides of springs. The springs are secured at theirends gaiters, and for use upon the waistbands of to the covering material, so that they art 5 overalls and pantaloons; but it can be emwholly independent of the stitching that se ployed upon other articles of wearing-apparel cures the gore in position. The covering ma wherever rubber-cloth is now used, and also, terial is made of such shape and size that who] on account of its strength, durability, coolness, it is puckered over the springs the elastic gor its independence of action, and the nicety with will be suitable for the location where it is in so which its elasticity can be regulated, in many tended to be used. The elastic gore is secure tending such covering material beyond the in position bystitching the plain inelastic margins e, on a sewing-machine, to the material of the article in which the gore is to be employed.

In addition to the advantages before stated the elastic gore provided with these inelastic margins possesses great advantages over rubber-cloth, for the reason that in sewing the rubber-cloth in position more or less of the rubber ligaments are cut off by the needle, and such ligaments soon pull out in use, and

do not longer serve to resist the strain on the' cloth, while in my gore the elasticity is not injured in the least by the stitching.

Where the purpose for which my elastic gore or gusset is to be used requires only a band having a single group of springs-as, for instance, for a strap to be applied to the waistbands of overalls or pantaloons-the covering material is divided throughout its width into tubes of equal size, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4; but where the material is of considerable width, (at right angles to the springs,) as when used for .gores or sections in corsets, or for the sides of gaiters, the tubes are arranged in groups, as shown in Fig. 2. Such groups may have two or more tubes each. Those groups where the greatest strength and stiffness are required would have the greatest number of tubes to accom modate a corresponding num ber of springs, while in portions of the gore where great elasticity would be better and not so much strength is required, the groups would have a less number of tubes; or the covering material may be provided throughout its width with contiguous tubes, and the springs could then be arranged in groups, as desired, a number of tubes between the groups of springs not being occupied.

The covering material I prefer to weave of two thicknesses, a I), and in the process of weaving, the threads of the two thicknesses are interlocked on lines 0, run nin g parallel with the warp. These interlocked lines do not extend to the edges of the covering material, the margins e, of double thickness, extending beyond the tubes formed bysuch interlocked threads. For this reason the covering material has to be Woven of a particular pattern, having tubes of the right length and margins of proper width to adapt the elastic gore or section, when complete, to the location where it isintended to be used.

The woven covering material with the tubes woven therein during the process of manufacture is cheaper, stronger, and neater in appearance than when such tubes are formed by sewing.

The springs of each group are preferably secured together at their ends and ing material by split metal tubes 0, which are to the coveri I I pushed over the end coils of the springs, the edges f g of the split in the tubes beinglapped past each other in spiral form to accommodate them to the coils of tubes are pinched or partly closed at their ends to retain the springs in position.

Instead of the split tubes, the springs may be connected by small plates pushed between the coils. These metal fastenings lie across the ends of the tubes between the thicknesses cab of the covering material, and stay the ends of the springs by fixing them to the covering material at those points.

In the elastic gore the covering material performs three offices, viz: it covers the springs, limits their expansion, and furnishes means for securing the gore in position.

What I claim as my invention is- 1. An elastic gore, gusset, orsection for wearing-apparel, composed of a covering material having tubes, spiral metal springs inclosed by such tubes and not extending to the edges of the covering material, and stayed at their ends by such covering material, and inelastic margins outside of the springs, substantially as described, for the purpose set forth.

2. An elastic gore, gusset, or section com-T posed of a covering material having tubes, and spiral metal springs inclosed by such tubes and not extending to the edges of the covering material, and stayed at their ends by such covering material, said covering material being puckered at its center over the springs, and having plain unpuckered margins extending wholly outside of the springs, substantially as described and shown.

3. An elastic gore, gusset, or section com posed of a covering material woven with tubes therein ot' a particular pattern to suit the location where the elastic gore, gusset, or section is intended to be used, such tubes not extending to the edges of the covering material, and spiral metal springs inclosed by such tubes, and stayed by the covering material at the ends of the tubes, substantially as described and shown.

4. In an elastic gore, combination of the covering material made of double thickness, and having tubes not extending to the edges of the covering material, with spiral metal springs inclosed by such tubes, and fastenings extending across the ends of the tubes between the thicknesses of the covering material, substantially as described and shown.

SIMON FLORSHEIM. Witnesses F. W. KASEHAGEN, WM. ROTTHOFF.

the springs. The splitgusset, or section, the I 

